Vienna’s role
as the capital of an empire that lasted for centuries has meant
that artists and musicians have flourished within the city. The
musicians who have at one time lived and worked in Vienna are especially
remembered by a series of annual festivals. Among the esteemed maestros
are Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven,
Brahms, Schönberg and Mahler. It
was in Vienna that Mozart created his operas and Strauss gave the
world the Blue Danube waltz and such beloved operettas
as Der Fledermaus. The city’s performance
venues are of the highest calibre and include the world-renowned
Staatsoper and the Burgtheater
– one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking
world.
Vienna has been at the centre of a number of artistic movements,
notably at the turn of the century, when the members of the Secessionist
movement reacted against the rigidity of the bourgeois establishment
and the constraints of figurative painting. These artistic periods
are writ large in the variety of architecture that graces the city,
from splendid Baroque palaces to Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau
U-Bahn stations (on the U4 line, notably Karlsplatz)
and Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank).
There are wonderful Art Nouveau houses on the Linke Wienzeile
(opposite the Naschmarkt) and delightful 20th-century buildings
in the Innerestadt, including the Loos Haus (opposite
the Hofburg) and boutiques by Hans Hollein. Not to be missed, however,
is the Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich,
in 1897. The striking exterior is only the beginning, for Gustav
Klimt’s Beethoven frieze lies within. Famous painters,
such as Klimt, Egon Schiele and,
more recently, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, are
an important part of Vienna’s artistic heritage and their
works are popular attractions.
Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase from all major
concert venues and theatres. Bookings can also be make at Bundestheaterkassen,
Hanuschgasse 3 (telephone number: (01) 5144 42960).
The tourist office at Albetinaplatz produces a
monthly magazine of cultural events, called Programm.
Another free monthly listing source is Wien
Magazin and the weekly tabloid, Falter,
which is published (in German) each Wednesday.
Classical concerts are listed under ‘Musik-E’,
pop, jazz and folk are listed under ‘Musik-U’
and clubs are listed under ‘Party-time’ in the Wienprogramm
& Lexikon, yet another weekly cultural magazine. Online
information on cultural events in Vienna is readily available (websites:
www.viennaonline.at
or www.magwien.gv.at/english).
Music
Vienna is probably home to more classical music performances than
any other city in the world. In addition to the regular performance
season, which generally runs from September to June, there are 9
annual festivals and numerous special events. Almost completely
obscured in the shadow of the past, is Vienna’s vibrant youth
scene, with venues offering everything from punk bands to the latest
pop favourites.
The Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera), Hanuschgasse
3 (telephone number: (01) 5144 42960, fax number: (01) 5144 42969,
performs daily September to June from a repertoire of nearly 100
operas, operettas and ballets. The splendid opera house makes for
a romantic and regal setting in which to see the performances. Standing-room
tickets are a bargain at €3.50 but the queue for tickets starts
in the late afternoon.
The Volksoper (People’s Opera), Währingerstrasse
78 (telephone number: (01) 5144 43318, fax number: (01) 5144 42969)
is a somewhat smaller venue that stages performances from a repertoire
of 50 different, lighter works, including musicals.
The Vienna Boys’
Choir is a Viennese institution, having been formed as the Boys’
Choir of the Royal Court in 1498. Together with members
of the chorus and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera,
they form the Hofmusikkapelle, which performs at
Mass in the Chapel of the Imperial Palace at 0915 hrs on Sundays
September to June. Seats cost €5–30 (standing room is
free). Tickets should be ordered at least 10 weeks in advance from
Hofmusikkapelle, Hofburg, 1010 Vienna (fax number: (01) 5339 92775,
website: www.wsk.at).
The Vienna Boys’ Choir also performs
concerts in the Brahms-Saal (Brahms Hall), the venue for chamber
music in the Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12 (telephone
number: (01) 505 8190, fax number: (01) 5058 68194, e-mail: tickets@musikverein.at,
website: www.musikverein-wien.at),
Friday at 1600 hrs, from April to June and September to October.
The programme costs €6–36 and consists of madrigals and
motets, waltz music and folk songs. Tickets are available from hotels
or from the Mondial travel agency, Faulmanngasse 4, 1040 Vienna
(telephone number: (01) 585 2688, fax number: (01) 587 1268, e-mail:
ticket@mondial.via.at,
website: www.mondial-travel.com).
The renowned Vienna
Philharmonic Orchestra (telephone number: (01) 505 6525, fax
number: (01) 505 9220, e-mail: philoffice@wienerphilharmoniker.at,)
performs at the Musikverein (see above). The annual New Year’s
Eve concert is broadcast throughout the world, while the previous
year’s concert is now available for viewing in the Haus
der Musik (see Further Distractions).
The Vienna
Symphonic Orchestra performs at the Wiener Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse
20 (telephone number: (01) 712 1211, fax number: (01) 712 2872,
e-mail: ticket@konzerthaus.at;
website: www.konzerthaus.at),
as well as a few other venues. The Konzerthaus is also home to the
Wiener
Singakademie choir and hosts touring international orchestras.
The Osterklang
(Sounds of Easter) music festival (telephone number: (01) 4000 8410,
fax number: (01) 40009 98410) takes place annually during Easter
week. The festival includes performances by both the Philharmonic
and Symphonic orchestras, chamber music concerts and a special opera
performance, as well as touring international orchestras and a midnight
mass concert in St Stephen’s Cathedral. Tickets
cost €15–100 and visitors can get hold of one by writing
to Oster- und Klangbogen Kartenbüro, Stadiongasse 9, 1010 Vienna.
Theatre
Like music, theatre also has a long and proud tradition in Vienna,
the patronage of the Imperial Court has been an
important factor in its development.
There are fifty theatres in the city but the Burgtheater
(Palace Theatre), Dr Karl Lueger Ring 2, First District (telephone
number: (01) 5144 4440), stands at the forefront and is an intense
source of pride to the Viennese. This impressive edifice is the
oldest and one of the most important stages in the German-speaking
world. Built on the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, the theatre
stages classical and contemporary works of the very highest standards
of production. Guided tours are available for €5, if booked
in advance by writing to the theatre at Dr Karl-Lueger Ring, 1010
Vienna (telephone number: (01) 5144 42218, fax number: (01) 5144
42624).
The Akademietheater, Lisztstrasse
1, Third District (telephone number: (01) 5144 4740), is the smaller
venue where the Burgtheater’s players also perform.
The Volkstheater,
Neustiftgasse 1 (telephone number: (01) 524 7263/4), Theater
in der Josefstadt, Josefstädter Strasse 26 (telephone number:
(01) 42700), and the Schauspielhaus,
Porzellangasse 19 (telephone number: (01) 317 0101), which offers
an ambitious experimental programme, are all important German-language
theatres in Vienna.
For English-language productions, Vienna’s
English Theatre, Josefgasse 12 (telephone number: (01) 402 1260,
fax number: (01) 408 8003), has an excellent reputation on the world
stage, to the extent that many contemporary playwrights choose to
premier their works here. There are also annual productions of French
and Italian language works. The International Theatre,
Porzellangasse 8 (telephone number: (01) 319 6272, fax number: (01)
310 8997), offers a programme of American and English plays.
The Viennese theatre season traditionally runs from September to
June, although there are often special performances during the summer,
particularly during one of the many festivals. The larger theatres
stage daily productions, while the smaller ones may have one or
two nights off. There are also a number of cabarets in the city.
Dance
The Im Puls
Tanz dance festival takes place in July and August, with performances
at the Volkstheater
Neustiftgasse 1 (telephone number: (01) 524 7263/4), as well
as other venues, where avant-garde dance is showcased by both local
and international dance companies.
Film
Many American and British films are shown in the original language
with subtitles. Listings are posted on kiosks and in Der
Falter. ‘OF’ after the film title indicates that
it is shown in its original language without subtitles. Omengu indicates
that the film is in the original language with English subtitles,
OmU indicates original language with German subtitles and ‘OmÜ’
means the film is shown in its original language with live German
translation. If the title is followed by ‘dF’, this
indicates that the film is dubbed into German.
Two of Vienna’s finest cinema complexes are Apollo,
Gumpendorferstrasse 63, Sixth District (telephone number: (01) 587
9651), and UCI Kinowelt, Lasallestrasse 71, Second
District (telephone number: (01) 21100).
Vienna cinemas that specialise in English-language films include
the English Cinema Haydn, Mariahilferstrasse 57,
Sixth District (telephone number: (01) 587 2262), and Flotten
American Center, Mariahilferstrasse 85, Sixth District
(telephone number: (01) 586 5152).
The arthouse Bellaria, Museumstrasse 3, Seventh
District (telephone number: (01) 523 7591), is exactly as it was
when it opened just after the war. German films from 1928–55
are shown in the afternoon and newer films in the evenings. Other
arthouse cinemas include Filmcasino, Margaretenstrasse
78, Fourth District (telephone number: (01) 587 9062), Schikaneder,
Margaretenstrasse 24, Fourth District (telephone number: (01) 585
2867), with an innovative programme including parties and exhibitions,
and Votiv,
Währigerstrasse 12, Ninth District (telephone number: (01)
317 3571), with cinema-breakfasts on certain Sundays.
During the break in the regular opera and classical music schedule
during July and August, devotees can enjoy free opera and music
films on the giant screen in front of the Rathaus.
The 1949 Carol Reed film, The Third Man, presents
an extremely well-known vision of Vienna. In it, Orson Welles
plays Harry Lime, who evades the authorities via the sewers and
back alleys of bombed-out, post-war Vienna. The Burg-Kino,
Opernring 19, shows this film every Friday at 2050 hrs and Sunday
at 1415 hrs.
Amadeus (1984), another
film set in Vienna – although shot mainly in Prague –
takes a look at Mozart’s last years in the city and the jealousies
and intrigues that filled the Imperial Court.
For 20-something travellers to the city, Richard Linklater’s
Before Sunrise (1995) is required viewing, as it
portrays one romantic night in Vienna, between the time that two
railway travellers meet up and then depart on their separate ways
the following morning.
Cultural
events
The Wiener
Festwochen takes place in May and June, featuring a variety
of musical drama, avant-garde theatre, dance and other performances.
The Klangbogen
Festival (telephone number: (01) 4000 8410, fax number: (01)
40009 98410) fills the gap in the classical music schedule with
a number of operas, operettas and orchestral and chamber music events
from late June until early September.
The
Donauinselfest offers a modern alternative to Vienna’s
rich classical music scene. The end of June sees 2 million people
flock to one of Europe’s biggest outdoor parties. This free
event features pop, rock and folk concerts over the course of 3
days.
Literary Notes
Vienna has been featured in writing throughout the ages. One of
the earliest depictions of the area appears in the Nibelungenlied
(c.1200), a medieval epic partially set in the Wachau Valley,
upstream from Vienna.
Later on, when Vienna itself was flourishing, Mozart
was probably the most famous inhabitant and he has certainly captured
the imagination of those writing about the city. Peter Shaffer wrote
the play, Amadeus (1979), about Mozart’s
last years in the city. This was made into a film of the same name
a few years later.
A less thriving post-war Vienna is evocatively portrayed in Graham
Greene’s novel, The Third Man (1949), also
made into a film. |
