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Last updated : Nov 2009
Copenhagen, Denmark
Rating: (4.0) (4 Votes)

Copenhagen, Denmark,
June 27th, 2004

Pros: Great concert
Cons: None

Hey everyone. I've just flown up to Copenhagen, Denmark from down in Split on the Dalmation Coast of Croatia.

I spent 6 nights in Dubrovnik, where I last wrote from - really did little more than eat, drink, swim and sleep. The weather was fantastic the whole time, and the water was perfect temperature for swimming. Stayed at the YHA hostel for the first three nights and met some great people, then some of us moved out due to a large school group coming in and stealing all the beds. Didn't have to move far, though - a couple of old ladies (that would be Nana and Mama) have some prime territory next to the hostel and sit outside hassling passing travellers to stay in their private rooms for a cheaper price. Whilst in the youth hostel we also had the pleasure of a local cat deciding to give birth to a litter of three kittens in the common room while people were eating dinner, then going bezerk and running around trying to jump on everyone with a nice coating of blood and afterbirth on her hind legs.

When we moved out we stayed under the care of Nana, a fat old Croatian woman with about 3.5 teeth and an annoying habit of explaining long stories to us in Croatian while we sit their nodding our heads pretending we had a clue what she was talking about.

Dubrovnik itself is a beautiful town, the old town section being enclosed by enormous old walls, which you could walk around for a panoramic view of the town and coast.

We eventually parted ways, and I went with one of the girls from the Nana's House crew and three new English recruits over to the island of Korcula, which is much like a scaled down version of Dubrovnik, and scored an apartment with a balcony and an amazing view of the water and mainland stretched out before us.

Stayed there for one night, then the others moved on to the island of Hvar while I took the ferry back to the coast to the town of Split. Split is a much bigger city than Dubrovnik and fairly ugly, but I was only using it as a base to fly up to Copenhagen. There are no youth hostels there so the cheapest option is taking up one of the offers of a private room from the hordes of people hassling you as you climb off the ferry.

A man was offering a taxi which I declined, then offered a room for a cheap price and I agreed to go with him. He spoke very little English, and drove me back to his house. We went inside, and he went to his daughter's room, pulled the covers off the bed, told me to sleep there and leave early in the morning. Obviously I was pretty dissapointed, but it was cheap and I was just after a bed for the night so I put my pack down and went to check out the town, but then me and the homeowner had a total communication breakdown with him trying to explain something important to me in Croatian, and I decided I'd had enough, took my pack, told him I wasn't staying and walked out the door. He also agreed that'd be a good idea.

As I was walking down the road adjoining the house wondering where the hell I was going to spend the night I bumped into an Aussie going the other way that I had met briefly at an ATM at the bus station in Zagreb a week and a half before. Talk about coincidence. He took me to where he was staying and I shacked up in a private room there. We went out for dinner and a couple of drinks then hit the hay as we were both fairly buggered.

Flew here to Copenhagen the next day, stayed last night at a youth hostel and will do the same tonight, before heading to the Roskilde music festival tomorrow.

Roskilde is the biggest outdoor music festival in Europe, it stretches over 4 days and you camp there, although people turn up from 3-4 days before it starts to get the party started. At the ferry office in Dubrovnik I met two Perth-bred Australians that were also booked on my flight here to Copenhagen, they and a crew of other Perthies are going to Roskilde and have even made themselves 'Team WA' shirts and a flag. Anyone who wants to get more info on the festival can check it out at http://www.roskilde-festival.dk.

Will update when it's over. Take care everyone.

Just returned from 7 nights at the Roskilde festival - what a crazy week! After writing my last entry, I made my way back to the hostel, but bumped into Stella & Craig (the other Australians I met that were heading to Roskilde) and the rest of 'Team WA'. It's actually made up of 4 people from Perth who now live in Sydney, an Englishman they know from Sydney, an American girl, and a couple of Danish friends they'd met in Australia before. Basically they all try and meet up at some point every year for a party, and Roskilde was the place this year.

I was then horded onto a bus and taken on a boat tour of Copenhagen, then we all proceeded to a pub for the night. The next morning I checked out of the hostel and went to Tue's apartment (one of the Danish guys) to meet up with everyone before heading to the festival. We were sitting around eating breakfast when it suddenly occured to me that two of the people I was with, brother and sister, were actually the cousins of the Davis family and we'd met eachother before. Talk about a small world..

We were presented with our team t-shirts and we went to the train station to head off to Roskilde, about 30km east of Copenhagen. We arrived there, and the sheer size of the festival soon became apparent. The music wasn't even due to start for another three days and there was already tens of thousands of tents stretched over enormous fields. The place has everything from a movie theatre and a daily newspaper to internet cafes and hairdressing salons, all in huge canvas tents. Luckily, Jacob, the other Dane, had arrived at 6am the day earlier and set up our area with 2 pavilions and 12 tents or so - a whole bunch of his Danish friends were also sharing the area with us.

Unfortunately, as I was a late addition to the group, and the surrounding area was already jam packed full of tents, I had to pitch my tent at what was probably the furthest point away from the centre of the festival. I came back to it later to find that my Swedish neighbours had decided to move my tent for me, as they had to make room for their friends. They'd squeezed it between two other tents and there wasn't enough room to pitch it properly, the outer covering sagged down onto the inner and water would come in when it rained. Not really impressed, but I would spend all day at the rest of the groups' tents and the festival area, and return to my tent at night just to sleep, so I wasn't too bothered.

Unfortunately we experienced what was said to be the worst Roskilde weather they'd had in about 12 years. The rain quickly turned the fields to mud, which, by the end of it, after a week of rain and 90 000 people treading over it, was like no other mud I've ever experienced. It was like thick, viscous soup, and gumboots soon became the standard fashion accessory. Quite a few areas got flooded out, they had to bring in trucks to attempt to drain them.

Really though, everyone was in such good spirits that it was hard for the weather to bring the mood down. My only problem was that as my tent was so far away, each night I would have to plow through field after field of sloppy mud in the dark, and the clothes I brought quickly picked up a nice brown coating.

The bands started on Thursday, and continued through until Sunday. There were heaps of bands and you can find a complete list here. David Bowie pulled out a day or two before he was due to play, and was replaced by Slipknot. Highlights for me would probably be the Dropkick Murphies, The Hives, The Pixies and Raised Fist. Frequently you'd be a bit reluctant to trek through the mudfields to go check out the stages, when you're having such a good time sitting around the tents drinking and talking.

To celebrate the arrival of Mark, the Englishman, on Friday, Simon prepared us all 'showbags', including useless toys, textas and glitter paint, and for the few hours we had a party, and I don't think anyone in the immediate vicinity's faces were spared from the wrath of the markers and paints. We also had several rounds of mud wrestling, and 'beer jousting' - a unique sport where two contenders charge eachother from a distance, and clash their open beer cans together to see which man still holds his drink. All our neighbours were extremely amused with the proceedings and we had quite an audience.

Anyway, after a fantastic week, it was time to head off and I packed my tent this morning and returned to Tue's apartment, where I am now. The aim is to try and clean the thick sheets of mud off my clothing while I'm here, and I'm getting up early tomorrow morning to take a bus to Stockholm, in Sweden. After a couple of nights there I will head to Helsinki, Finland for a short stay, then begin to make my way back to London for my flight home.