Brittany
is a region of France that boasts a fiercely independent culture
that dates back to its Celtic past.
Brittany comprises the départements of Côtes
d’Armor, Finistère, Ille-et-Villaine
and Morbihan. Fishing has long been the most important
industry and the rocky Atlantic coastline, high tides and strong,
treacherous currents demand high standards of seamanship. At Finistère,
the Atlantic swell can drive spouts of water up to 30m (100ft) into
the air. The coastal scenery is particularly spectacular at Pointe
du Raz and Perros-Guirec. The Gauls
arrived on the peninsula in about 600 BC. Little is known about
their way of life or why they constructed the countless stone monuments
to be found throughout Brittany, cromlechs, altars, menhirs and
dolmens, Carnac is the supreme example of this. They were displaced
by the Romans during the reign of Julius Caesar and who in turn
were displaced by Celts arriving from Britain in AD 460. The Celts
named their new land Brittanica Minor and divided
it into the coastal area, l’Ar Mor (the country
of the sea), and the inland highlands, l’Ar Coat
(the country of the woods). The two areas in Brittany are still
referred to as l’Armor and l’Argoat.
The Celts were master stonemasons, as may be seen by the many surviving
calvaires, or elaborately carved stone crosses. Brittany
emerged from the Dark Ages as an independent duchy. A series of
royal marriages eventually brought Brittany into France and by 1532
the perpetual union of the Duchy of Brittany with
France was proclaimed. Despite the rugged coastline, it is possible
to enjoy a conventional beach holiday in Brittany.
The
Emerald Coast, a region of northern Brittany centred on
Dinard, has many fine bathing beaches. The beach
resorts are often named after little-known saints, St Enogat,
St Laumore, St Brill, St
Jacut, St Cast, and so on. There are also
bathing beaches in the bay of St Brieuc, including
Val André, Etables and
St Quay. Brittany’s main attractions are
her wild beauty and the unique Bretn culture.
In general, coastal areas have retained a more characteristically
Breton way of life than in the hills inland, though
much of the coastline is blighted by the holiday homes which seem
to occupy every possible space. Elaborate Breton head-dresses are
still worn in some parts, the style varying slightly from village
to village. Breton religious processions and the ceremonies of the
pardons take place in a number of communities at various times of
the year may have changed little since the Celtic times. In the
region around Plouha, many of the inhabitants still
speak Breton, a language evolved from Celtic dialects, and Celtic
music and cultural performances are also popular. The coast from
Paimpol consists of colossal chunks of rock, perilous
to shipping, as the many lighthouses suggest. The very pleasant
villages and beaches of Perros-Guirec, Trégastel
or Trébeurden contrast with the
wild and rocky shoreline.
At Aber Vrac’h and Aber Benoit,
the ocean is caught and churned up in deep, winding chasms penetrating
far inland. Along the coast is the huge and sprawling port of Brest,
possessing one of Europe’s finest natural harbours which has
a 13th-century castle. The canal running from Brest
to Nantes makes a very pleasant journey either
by hired boat or walking or on horseback. The interior consists
of wooded hills and farms, buttes (knolls) with fine views, short
rivers and narrow valleys. Many of the so-called mountains are merely
undulating verdant dunes, barely 300m (1000ft) high. They are nonetheless
remnants of the oldest mountain chain on the planet. Breton
architecture is perhaps more humble than in other parts of France.
Inland, there are several impressive castles and many walled towns
and villages. The churches are small and simple. For the most part,
Brittany benefits from the warmth of the Gulf Stream all the year
round and the tourist season runs from June to September. The countryside
blazes with flowers in the spring, attracting many varieties of
birdlife.
The city of Rennes, the ancient capital of Brittany,
is a good base from which to explore the highlands, sights include
the Palais de Justice, the castle, the Musée
des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de Bretagne,
which seeks to preserve and foster all things Breton. Some of Brittany’s
most productive farms are close to the northern shore. Fertilised
with seaweed, they produce fine potatoes, artichokes, cabbage, cauliflower,
peas, string beans and strawberries. The quality of locally produced
ingredients lends itself to the simple Breton cuisine, which brings
out natural flavours rather than concealing them with elaborate
sauces. Raw shellfish (including oysters), lobster, lamb and partridge
are particularly good. The salt meadows of lower Brittany add a
distinctive flavour to Breton livestock and game.
Crêpes
are a regional speciality and there are two distinct varieties,
a sweet dessert crêpe served with sugar, honey, jam, jelly
or a combination (eg suzette), and the savoury sarrasin variety,
made from buckwheat flour and served with eggs, cheese, bacon or
a combination of several of these (the crêpe is folded over
the ingredients and reheated). They can be bought ready-made in
the local shops. Little or no cheese is produced in Brittany, but
some of the finest butter in the world comes from here, it is slightly
salted, unlike the butter from the other regions of France. Cider
is frequently drunk with food, as well as wine. The popular wine,
Muscadet, comes from the extreme southern point
of Brittany, at the head of the Loire Estuary, near Nantes.
It is a dry, fruity white wine that goes very well with shellfish,
especially oysters. |
