Spectacular weather
is one of the major attractions of Provence, whose départements
comprise of Hautes Alpes, Alpes de Haute
Provence, Var, Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhône.
The deep blue skies of summer are seldom clouded, although there
is some rain during the spring and autumn. The only inhospitable
element is the mistral, a wind that sometimes roars down the Rhône
Valley, often unrelenting for three or four days. When
the Romans arrived in Gaul, they were so delighted
with the climate of the Bouches du Rhône
that they made it a province rather than a colony, which was more
usual.
The varied flora that has taken root in this land has given it the
hues of pewter, bronze, dark green and vibrant green. The sun has
baked the dwellings to shades of ochre and rose while the deep red
soil has provided tiles that remain red, defying the searing rays
of the Midi sunshine.
The towns, their architecture, stones and tiles all blend subtly
throughout Provence with the majestic plane trees
in the streets and squares. Their long heavy trunks of mottled greys
and the graceful vaulting of the heavily leafed branches create
a peculiar atmosphere not found anywhere else. These are the principal
adornments of most of the cities, villages and market towns, casting
a deep blue shade on the inhabitants, the mossy fountains, cafe
terraces and games of pétanque. The eras of Greek and Roman
domination of Provence have left monuments scattered
across the countryside. They include walled hill towns, theatres,
triumphal arches, colosseums, arenas, bridges and aqueducts. Christianity
brought the Palace of the Popes in Avignon, many
churches and hundreds of roadside shrines or ‘oratories’
which have given the name oradour to many communities along the
Rhône. Close to Avignon
is Orange with its stunning Roman ampitheatre and
Roman ruins.
Christian art of the highest quality is scattered throughout the
region from Notre-Dame-des-Doms in Avignon
to Notre-Dame-du-Bourg in Digne
in the centre of the lower alps. The pilgrims throughout the territory
built wonderful churches typified by graceful semi-circular arches,
round rose windows, statues of Christ surrounded by evangelists,
saints, the damned in chains and processions of the faithful. These
are carved in stone, so worn by sun and wind they almost have the
quality of flesh. Many of the towns and villages are marked by fortified
castles and watchtowers to guard against the coming of the Saracens,
the Corsairs of the Rhône and marauding bands.
For this was the invasion route, by land from Provence
and by sea from the south. Tarascon, Beauclair, Villeneuve,
Gourdon, Entrevaux, Sisteron and many others had their
‘close’ and tower situated high above the river or overlooking
the sea.
Marseille was founded by the Greeks (they called it Massalia)
and used as a base for their colonisation of the Rhône
Valley. Today, it is France’s most important commercial
port on the Mediterranean and consequently many
people, often who have never been, dismiss it is an ugly port city.
This does Marseille no justice at all as it actually
offers a huge mass of things to do, a vibrant cosmopolitan ambience
and some top-class culinary experiences. Marseille
is France’s most energetic city, a living, throbbing mass
of cultures – far more melting pot than salad bowl –
unlike many of the country’s other major cities. The TGV Sud
line from Paris, and a regular budget airline route
from London have both helped to bring the city the recognition it
has long deserved.
There are many sites of interest in Marseille including, the old
port, the hilltop church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde,
several museums, Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation,
the Hospice de la Vieille Charité and, of
course, the Château d’If, one of the
most notorious of France’s historic island fortresses. Vast
oil refineries and depots dominate the sparsely populated salt flats
and marshes to the north and west of the city, but the land is not
yet dead. It is the perfect habitat for several species of birds
found in only a few other places in Eastern Europe, including nightjars
and bustards.
On the far side of the Rhône is the wild,
marshy area known as the Camargue, long used for
the breeding of beef cattle and horses, for the evaporation of sea
water to make salt, and more recently for growing rice. The cattle
breeders, or cowboys, are armed with lances instead of lassos. Vast
flocks of waterbirds nest here in a national bird reserve, among
them snow-white egrets and pink flamingos. When, in 123 BC, Consul
Sextias Calvinus established a camp beside some warm springs in
the broad lower Rhône Valley, it was named
Aquae Sextiae and today is known as Aix-en-Provence.
Interesting ancient sites are the ruined Roman aqueduct at Pont
du Gard and the amphitheatre in Arles.
This whole region is also fascinating since it was frequently painted
by the great Post-Impressionist painters Cézanne
and Van Gogh. The combination of gentle light and
breathtaking scenery finds echoes throughout the art galleries of
the world. Near Arles is Les Baux, a haunting medieval
hilltop village.
The many olive trees found throughout Provence
provide a popular fruit and one of the important staples of the
local cuisine, a fine olive oil used extensively in the cooking
of the local food. Garlic, though not exclusively
associated with Provence, is used more here than
in any other part of France. It is sometimes called ‘the truffle
of Provence’. A third element, the tomato, seems to get into
most of the delicious Provençal concoctions as well. The
cooking here varies from region to region. In the Camargue
a characteristic dish is estouffade de boeuf. Marseille
is noted for a dish called pieds et paquets (‘feet and packages’)
which consists of sheep’s tripe stuffed with salt pork and
cooked overnight in white wine with onions, garlic and parsley.
Trie à la Niçoise is similar, but nonetheless unique.
Perhaps the most typical dish, and one found in most parts of Provence,
is tomates provençales, a heavenly concoction with all the
Provençal specialities, olive oil, garlic and parsley baked
in and on a tomato. This combination can also be applied to courgettes
and aubergines. All of these vegetables, along with sweet peppers,
are found in the most famous Provençal vegetable ragoût
known, for some long lost reason, as ratatouille, this too being
well laced with garlic and of course cooked in olive oil. Mayonnaise,
also, well mixed with Provençal garlic, becomes aioli, which
is served with boiled vegetables and/or fish. Gigot, leg of lamb,
is a more common local speciality. Surviving into the era of nouvelle
cuisine and still the pride of the Provençal coast is the
famous fish stew called bouillabaisse. Like cassoulet in Languedoc,
there are several versions, each claiming to be the ‘authentic’
one. The ingredients are not vastly different – having to
do with the amount of saffron used or the inclusion or exclusion
of certain fish.
Few wines are grown in Provence, although some
are quite good, especially those originating in the Lubéron.
The four districts that have been granted recognition are best known
for their rosé wines and are: Cassis, Bandol,
Bellet and la Palette. They are
all on the coast, except la Palette which is near
Aix. |
