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Last updated : Nov 2007
Beginning to see the light
Rating: (5.00) (7 Votes)

Sarteano, Italy
Sep 22, 2003

Pros: Mind-numbingly delicious Gelato
Cons: None

From the most crammed hostel yet to a room of my own in a posh Tuscan villa, Italy has been quite the experience for me.

After a relaxing four nights with family in Geneva--including driving a convertible Jaguar along the shore of Lac Leman and riding a bike to Lausanne--I headed to the Italian Riviera and the seaside villages of Cinque Terre. Upon arrival in Riamaggiore, I tracked down Luciano, whose name and phone number I found in my guide book, and he led me through several narrow alleys and a courtyard scattered with children playing soccer to the two miniature rooms he somehow managed to convert into a hostel. Thankfully, mine one was not one of the several bunks crammed into the kitchen/dining area. But as always, the company at the hostel made all the difference. Such close quarters meant fast-friends, and the twelve of us staying there shared several bottles of wine while admiring the stars that evening on the rocks by the shore.

Day one of the mandatory two-day itinerary in Cinque Terre is to hike between the five villages--about four hours of sweat and dust sprinkled with hillside vineyards and sweeping views of the sea--from Riomaggiore to Monterosso. Day two was dedicated to flopping out on the beach, and if you're lucky like Gahl, a friend from the hostel, and I were, you'll find a nude beach where you can tan the parts you never thought you could!

I was sorry to leave the coast, but lucky to have an aunt and uncle vacationing with friends in Tuscany, who offered me an extra room (with its own bathroom, tub and all!) in their beautiful rental villa. I never thought I'd be so happy to be able to leave my toiletries in the bathroom. It was also nice to have someone else in the proverbial driver's seat for a while, as we toured the narrow cobblestone streets of Cortona, Montepulciano, Assissi, and Perugia--all easy day trips from our villa outside of Sarteano, and all boasting gorgeous views of the Tuscan landscape and mind-numbingly delicious Gelato. Of course I had to dedicate one day to taking advantage of the free washing machine and private swimming pool while the adults took an Italian cooking class in a nearby town.

I ate and drank enough marvelous food and wine in Tuscany to last me through the rest of my trip, so where better to go from here than the epicenter of Bavarian delights: Oktoberfest in Munich!