Amsterdam
has always had a vibrant and varied cultural scene and over the
last few decades it has blossomed, thanks to a renewed interest
in the Dutch culture. Amsterdam is a musical city, offering a wide
range of musical styles from street performers and carillons to
the more highbrow midday and evening performances in the Concertgebouw
(Concert Hall), Concertgebouwplein 2–6 (telephone number:
(020) 671 8345, for reservations or 675 4411, for information),
which is noted for its superb acoustics.
On most summer evenings, it is possible to attend an organ concert
or a recital of Baroque chamber music in one of
Amsterdam’s magnificent old churches, including Oude
Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk.
Amsterdam stages around 15,000 performances every year, although
there is a more concentrated cultural season lasting from September
to the end of June. Shows are reasonably priced and a relaxed dress
code means that even the opera can be attended in fairly casual
clothes.
Tickets to cultural events can be booked through AUB,
Leidseplein 26, open 0900–2100 (telephone number: (0900) 0191,
for €0.40 per minute). AUB only accepts payment by credit card.
Online listings for cultural events (website: www.timeout.com)
are updated regularly. Music
The Concertgebouw,
Concertgebouwplein 2–6 (telephone number: (020) 671 8345,
for reservations or 675 4411, for information), is not only home
to the world-famous Royal
Concertgebouw Orchestra conducted by Riccardo Chailly
but also plays host to visiting companies and international soloists.
Free concerts take place in either the Grote Zaal
(Great Hall) or Kleine Zaal (Recital Hall) of the
Concertgebouw, on Wednesday 1230 hrs–1300 hrs. The
Beurs de Berlage, Damrak 62a (telephone number: (020) 530 4141,
fax number: (020) 620 4701), is an architecturally fascinating building,
where the 140-member Netherlands
Philharmonic Orchestra is based. The
Netherlands Chamber Orchestra and guest artists tend to perform
in the building’s ‘glass box’, the Aga
Zaal. The Boekmanzaal is part of the Muziektheater
(Opera House), Amstel 3 (telephone number: (020) 551 8911, fax number:
(020) 551 8025), home of Netherlands
Opera . It holds a free lunchtime concert at 1230 hrs–1300
hrs on Tuesday (October to June), often performed by members of
the Netherlands Philharmonic
Orchestra, the Choir of the Netherlands Opera and the Netherlands
Ballet Orchestra.
Less formal concerts are performed by four of the city’s 17th-century
carillons, on a weekly basis. Bell ringing takes place on Tuesday
1200–1300 at Westertoren (Western Tower), Thursday at Zuidertoren
(Southern Tower) and Friday at Munttoren. The bell ringer at Oude
Kerkstoren (Old Church Tower) gets to sleep in, concerts are Saturday
1600 hrs–1700 hrs. Theatre
International fringe theatre companies perform in English and the
Stadsschouwburg
(Municipal Theatre), Leidseplein 26 (telephone number: (020) 624
2311, fax number: (020) 623 8685), often stages English-language
theatre productions, as well as dance performances.
Musicals and cabaret find a home in the Koninklijk
Theater Carré (Royal Carré Theatre), Amstel 115–125
(telephone number: (020) 353 5355, fax number: (020) 624 8499),
situated on the River Amstel, and in the nearby
Kleine Komedie,
Amstel 56–58 (telephone number: (020) 624 0534 (tickets) or
626 5917 (information), e-mail: algemeen@dekleinekomedie.nl)
a charming little theatre dating back to 1788. Dance
The
Dutch National Ballet is considered one of the best and most
versatile companies in Western Europe. Its many devotees flock to
the Muziektheater (Opera House), Amstel 3 (telephone
number: (020) 551 8911, fax number: (020) 551 8025), a 1600-seat
coliseum overlooking the Amstel River, to see the
great classical ballets as well as works by 20th-century dance innovators.
The Muziektheater also plays host to the Netherlands
Dance Theatre, Holland’s other world-class ballet company,
as well as foreign companies. Situated on a curve of the Amstel,
in the heart of the city, this latest cultural landmark is, despite
its size, amazingly intimate. The venue is closed during July.
Film
The multi-screen City, Kleine Gartmanplantsoen
13–25 (telephone number: (0900) 1458), on the Leidseplain,
shows Hollywood blockbusters. But Amsterdam is also known for its
arty cinemas, such as the newly renovated Tuschinski,
Reguliersbreestraat 26–28 (telephone numberl: (0900) 1458),
which shows films from all over the world. Films are rarely dubbed
into Dutch but are shown in the original language with subtitles.
Films shot in Amsterdam include Mike van Diem’s Karakter
(1997), Dick Maas’s Amsterdamned (1987)
and the Bond film, Diamonds are Forever (1971).
Cultural Events
Every 30th April, a huge street party and carnival marks Queen’s
Day and the city is awash with orange. Floating Amsterdam
occupies the last two weeks of May, when outdoor productions are
staged on the River Amstel. During June, the month-long
Holland Festival takes place, featuring music, dance and drama.
Tickets can be booked in advance through tourist offices but some
same day sale tickets are always held at the Musiektheater
box office. In August, concerts are performed on the boats ringing
the Prinsengracht canal. All summer long there
are regular cultural events in Vondelpark.
Literary Notes Ian
McEwan won the 1998 Booker Prize for his
Amsterdam (1998), which is partly set in the city.
The city also provided the inspiration for part of John
Irving’s novel, A Widow for One Year (1999),
and Sidney Sheldon’s If Tomorrow
Comes (1986). Albert Camus wrote
La Chute (1970) while based here. More recently,
Deborah Moggach’s Tulip Fever (1998)
depicted life in 16th-century Amsterdam.
The city has played a prominent role in the works of Dutch authors.
Two well-known books that have been translated into English include
Blue Mondays (1994) by Arnon Grunberg
and Bitter Herbs (1957) by Marga Minco.
The unique ambience of Amsterdam permeates the work of Nicolas
Freeling, in his detective novel, A Long Silence
(1972).
Perhaps the most famous work to come out of Amsterdam, however,
is The Diary of Anne Frank (1947). Marga
Minco’s Empty House (1986) might be less famous but
it explores some of the same issues. A lighter work is Janwillem
van de Wetering’s Amsterdam Cops (2001),
a collection of cop stories that are mainly set in the capital’s
underworld. Geert Mak’s Amsterdam: A
Brief Life (2001) is ostensibly a guide to the city but
its historical depth and highly personalised detail make it an interesting
read for repeat visitors wanting to delve further under Amsterdam’s
skin. |