With whole areas of
the city being turned over to the pursuit of pleasure and traffic
jams at 0400-0500 hrs at the weekend , it is obvious that Lisbon
is a city that takes its nightlife very seriously.
Traditionally, the nightlife centre has been Bairro Alto,
with its fado clubs, traditional, canteen-style bars and discos.
The simplest thing is to walk in and out of a number of them, ordering
an imperial, or a caneca (pint) if the place looks inviting. The
bars are open until 0400hrs, and often have lock-ins. The average
price of a beer in Lisbon is €2 and the minimum age for buying
alcohol is 16 years.
In recent years, much of the action moved on to the Docas
(Docks) district, located just to the east of Ponte 25 de Abril.
One bar after another occupies a row of converted warehouses at
the Doca de Santo Amaro, with a crowded promenade
and tables outside. Towards the city, the Doca de Alcântara
is another favourite with Lisbon’s moneyed professionals and
the ‘in’ crowd, although there have recently been problems
with drugs that have led to tough and off-putting door policies.
The current en vogue spot is around raffish Santa Apolonia,
although things are a bit more hit and miss than they are at Biarro
Alto, despite the presence of Lux, Lisbon’s
most renowned nightclub (see below). At around 0200hrs, many of
the locals head to the multitude of discos, which rock until 0600hrs
or later. Some Lisbon clubs leave the cover charge to the doorman’s
discretion and entrance can cost anything from nothing to €5-12
(this sometimes includes some drinks).
The
Time Out website is a good source of information on the new
bars, clubs and the many restaurants in Lisbon.
Bars
Along the row of buildings east of Ponte 25 de Abril,
you can take your pick of the many competing bars, including nightlife
delights such as the popular Celtas Iberos Irish Bar,
Doca de Santo Amaro.
Finding a place in Bairro Alto area is a bit more
complicated – the best thing to do is to walk uphill from
the Praça Luís de Camões, just to the west
of the Chiado metro station. Clube da Esquina,
Rua Barroca 30, is a trendy, minimalist bar, popular with the local
cool crowd.
Rua da Atalaia is one of the more lively streets and the welcoming
Portas Largas, Rua da Atalaia 105, is a good place
to begin, although it is sometimes taken over by private parties
or DJ events that demand a high cover charge.
Di Vino, Rua da Atalaia 160, is a haven for wine lovers,
with occasional live music, while the Instituto do Vinho
do Porto, Rua de Sao Pedro, claims to have over 300 different
varieties of port.
Arroz Doce, Rua de
Sao Pedro 117-119, is a traditional canteen-style bar and a very
good place to order a pontapé na cona. Fátima
Lopes, Rua de Sao Pedro 36, quite a swish bar with funky
sofas and a dancefloor. Punters can also shop for the eponymous
designer’s fashions until 0400 hrs. Work in Progress
(WIP), Rua da Bica Duarte Belo 47-49, is a laid-back place
with exposed brick walls and ambient music.
The current fashion in Lisbon is for restaurant/bars and one of
the most hip spots at the moment is Bica do Sapato,
Avenida Infante D Henrique, in the Santa Apolonia
area. Housed in a revamped warehouse near the waterfront, this lounge
bar cum restaurant cum sushi bar attracts the local smart set and
some Portuguese celebrities and American actor John Malkovich is
said to be one of the investors.
Casinos
Casino Estoril, Praça Jose Teodoro dos Santos,
Estoril, is one of the largest and well-known casinos located in
Europe. There is a charge of €2.50 for the gaming rooms (this
excluding slot machines) and visitors must be over 18 years, wear
smart-casual attire and provide ID.
Clubs
There are a number of clubs around the area of Doca de Alcântara.
Kings and Queens, Doca de Alcântara, attracts
boys and girls of all persuasions. Kremlin, Rua
Escadinhas da Praia 5, and closeby Kapital, Avenida
24 de Julho 68, are both very popular – the former plays techno
in Egyptian-style surroundings, while the latter has 3 floors, each
with a different style.
The city’s hottest spot is still the ultra stylish Lux,
Rua Gustavo Matos Sequeira 42, with John Malkovich said to be among
those behind this funky mega-club, a €12 cover charge is payable
but this includes the same value of drinks. Lux
can be by ticket only when big international DJs come to visit.
In addition to the dancefloor, attractions include a lounge area
with voluminous red latex beanbags and an outdoor terrace with great
views over the river.
Live Music
Fado is a form of music that developed in
Lisbon’s sailor bars in the late 18th century. It is a mournful,
romantic singing style that fits somewhere between blues and flamenco
and bemoans the death of Portugal’s great Golden Age and these
traditional sounds are best heard at one of the casa de fado, from
about 2100-2200 hrs.
Fado houses include Adega Machado, Rua Norte 91,
Adega Mesquita, Rua Diàrio de Noctícias
107, A Severa, Rua das Gàveas 51–61
and Clube de Fado, Rua S. João da Prça
92-94. Visitors should be aware that most fado clubs charge at least
a €10 entrance fee and increasingly are becoming the sole preserve
of tourists during the high season.
Hot Clube
de Portugal, Praça de Alegria 38-39, is a great
place for jazz sessions. On Thursday, live jazz is also played at
Catacumbas Jazz-Bar, Rua da Rosa 154.
For African and Brazilian music, try Lontra, Rua
de São Bento 157, in Bairro Alto, and Pê Sujo,
Rua Madalena 102-8, near the cathedral in the Alfama area. Large
concerts can be seen at the Atlântico Pavilion,
Rossio dos Olivais (telephone number: (21) 891 8409, fax number:
(21) 891 8413, e-mail: info@atlantico-multiusos.pt),
in the Parque das Nações (see Sightseeing
page). |
