It was Voltaire’s own theatrical productions in Château de Ferney, in 1759, that initiated the theatrical tradition in Geneva. In 1783, the Théâtre de Neuve was constructed and this was replaced by the present Grand Théâtre de Genève, designed in the style of the Second Empire and directly motivated by the Paris Opera House. Today, the 1500-seat theatre is exceedingly active, with strong opera, ballet and choral seasons.
The Geneva Tourist Office and weekly guide Genève Agenda (in English and French) provide information on cultural events and performance in the city. The central ticket office, Billetel (tel: (022) 311 9970), is at Arcade d’Information on the Pont de la Machine.
Cultural Events
Geneva’s main cultural event is Eté Musicale (Musical Summer) of live concerts, including chamber music, recitals and jazz concerts, from July to September. Summer is the time for open-air everything. Popular films are shown in the city’s open air cinema, Cinélac, by the lakeside, from July to August. 1 August, National Day, brings fireworks at the Reformation Wall, traditional bonfires and dancing. This is followed by the Fêtes de Genève’s street parades, street theatre and fireworks, 2-11 August. Annual international film festival, Cinéma Tout Ecran, takes place in October. Free concerts are held in churches throughout the year.
There are 2 major musical events worth stepping just outside of Geneva for and both take place in July. The Paléo Festival (tel: (022) 361 0101) in Nyon, is Switzerland’s biggest open air festival. It includes everything musical, from classical to techno, bringing together major names like Charles Trenet, Steve Waring and Prodigy. The Montreux Jazz Festival (tel: (021) 623 4567) showcases mixture of jazz musicians and pop stars. Former performers include Buddy Guy, Bob Dylan, B B King and Bjôrk.
Meanwhile, back in Geneva, the Fête de l’Escalade is Geneva’s independence commemoration, which celebrates the victory over the Duke of Savoy’s troops on 11 December 1602. Each year, fine quality Swiss chocolate pots (Marmite d’Escalade) bearing the city’s coat of arms in red and gold and adorned with marzipan ‘vegetables’ are eaten in large quantities. These represent sweet reminders of the cauldron of boiling soup that Mère Royaume poured over the city walls to keep the enemy at bay and bring triumph to Geneva. It is a colourful event as people parade through in the streets in 17th century dress to the sounds of fifes and drums.
Literary Notes
Geneva has inspired some of Europe’s greatest writers and philosophers.
 Paris born François Marie Arouet Voltaire (1694-1778) escaped from the persecution of the French Church and State to arrive in Geneva in 1755. He stayed in Les Délices, which he lovingly described as ‘the palace of a philosopher with the garden of an epicure’. The mansion now, is a documentation centre, the Institut et Musée Voltaire, Rue des Délices 25 (tel: (022) 344 7133). In Candide (1759), Voltaire described the crushing unfairness of the world.
An equally convincing argument for justice and freedom came in the form of The Social Contract (1762), by Geneva-born Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1712-1778).
Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelleyand Lord Bryron’s stay in Geneva gave rise to Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein.
The city has most recently inspired actor Sir Peter Ustinov; his novel, Monsieur René, is set in modern Geneva.
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