Beyoglu
has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery
and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although
it developed a reputation for drabness in the 1980s, Istanbul’s
huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the
district’s recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs
rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room
for more nightclubs, wine bars
and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking
age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked.
Like most cities, drinks prices differ hugely.
The taverns or meyhanes in Balik Pasaj (Fish Market) are
much cheaper than nightclubs or live music venues. It is
advisable to check for cover charges at live music venues. Meyhanes
tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200,
while clubs can stay open as late as 0600
at weekends. Visitors (especially lone men) are advised
to stay away from the seedier venues in the back
alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be very cautious
if a new acquaintance suggests a venue. Numerous strip shows or
belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors
will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who in some way
end up at their table all night.
Time Out Istanbul
(the same company and format as the London publication) is an English-language
monthly magazine with entertainment listings, features and reviews.
The Guide
Istanbul provides up-to-date information on the latest bars
and clubs. Turkish Daily News, the English-language daily newspaper,
will also have entertainment and listings.
Bars
The centre of nightlife is undoubtedly Beyoglu,
with a huge range of bars and clubs. Running off Istiklal Caddesi,
the side-street Imam Adnan Sokak has several, like Kaktus
and Pia, many with tables outside. Further down
Istiklal is Nevizade Sokak, behind Cicek Pasaj, a narrow boisterous
street packed with bars, including the noisy, friendly Aslanim
and trendy Gizli Bahce.
Pano
Sarap Evi (Wine Bar) on Mesrutiyet Caddesi is a Greek-style
drinking house also selling fine food, with good selection of house
wines. Nearer Tunel, the narrow streets around Asmalimescit have
countless little bars and seemingly a new one opening every week.
Over in the village of Ortakoy, up the Bosphorus, there are a range
of upmarket bars and cafes for fashionistas, like Sedir
on Mecidiye Köprüsü Sokak, Bobos
on Salhane Sokak and Kethuda on Muallim Naci Caddesi.
Galata Bridge has several bars, Dersa’adet
being one of the liveliest with live local music most nights.
Casinos
Gambling
is illegal in Turkey, due to its association with organised
crime.
Clubs
Istanbul’s clubs range between a small dancefloor in a Beyoglu
pub, to swish terraces overlooking the Bosphorus where revellers
go to be seen. The two most famous in the latter
group are both in Ortakoy: Reina, 10 Muallim Naci,
and Laila, 141-142 Muallim Naci, have been likened
to an entertainment emporium, each with numerous bars, dance floors
and restaurants, and packed with celebs, models and millionaires.
A little more earthy, Nu Teras, 145-7 Mesrutiyet
Caddesi, Tepebasi, has an open terrace in summer with to-die-for
views of the city. Karga, 16 Kadife Sokak, Kadikoy,
is a chilled bar with local house and techno DJs and visiting bands.
Be Club, Kennedy Sokak, Sarayburnu, Eminonu,
is the only open-air gay club in town. At weekends,
there are several bars around Asmalimescit which have dancing till
late.
Dance
The Turkish State Opera and Ballet performs at
the Atatürk Kültür Merkezi (see
above) and there are also dance performances at the indoor Cemal
Resit Rey Concert Hall, Darülbedayi Caddesi, Conference
Valley, Harbiye (tel: (0212) 240 5012 or 231 5497/8 or 248 0863).
There are also performances in galleries and smaller venues; check
the press for details. There are dance performances during
the International Istanbul Theatre Festival.
Film
Foreign
films, mostly from Hollywood, outnumber Turkish
domestic output and generally show in their original
language with Turkish subtitles. Most of the city’s
cinemas are in Istiklal Caddesi, in Beyoglu. Visitors should
check the Turkish Daily News for listings or simply comb the streets.
The Alkazar Cinema Center, Istiklal Caddesi 179
(tel: (0212) 293 2466/67 or 249 7297), Fitas, Istiklal
Caddesi 24/26 (tel: (0212) 249 9361), Emek, Istikalal
Caddesi Yesilcam Sokak 5 (tel: (0212) 293 8439), and Beyoglu,
Istiklal Caddesi Halep Pasaji 140 (tel: (0212) 251 3240), are good
bets, showing European, Turkish, and Hollywood films.
Mega cinema complexes are only found at
huge shopping malls in the outer suburbs. Beyoglu cinemas
also participate in the International Film Festival, usually taking
place in April, and sometimes screen lesser-known international
films.
Turkish films have made a recent
impact on world cinema, especially Uzak (2002)
and Hamam (1997), both filmed in Istanbul and winning
several international awards. Uzak details the ponderous
tale of two cousins, photographer Mahmut, who has his style severely
cramped with the arrival of his luckless, uncouth younger cousin
Yusuf from his village, seeking work. Hamam is about a couple, Francesco
and Marta, who run a small design company in Rome. When Francesco's
long forgotten Aunt Anita dies in Istanbul, he travels there to
look after the sale of the hamam he inherited from her. There he
meets the family running the hamam, gets attracted to one of its
members (as well as falling for the whole Turkish atmosphere) and
he decides not to sell the hamam after all.
Live
Music
Babylon,
Seybender Sokak, in Asmalimescit, puts on adventurous experimental
and jazz concerts with local and international DJs and bands. Venue
Maslak, 100 Yil Sanayi Sitesi, Maslak, and Parkorman,
Büyükdere Caddesi, Maslak, are both vast open-air venue
for bands. Roxy, Aslan Yatagi Sokak, Siraselviler-Taksim,
is a popular club, sometimes featuring foreign, Turkish and international
pop and rock groups. The highly respected Nardis Jazz Club,
14 Kulebi Sokak, Galata, features live musicians each night, ranging
from classic, modern, fusion and ethnic jazz, and also serves food.
Pozitif Promotions,
which runs Babylon, puts on the Akbank Jazz Festival
and the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival.
For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil,
or classical romantic singing, especially around Beyoglu.
Music
The most dependable guide to music events in the
city is fly posters and banners along Istiklal Caddesi.
The 900-seat Atatürk Cultural Centre or AKM
(see above), is shared by the State Opera and Ballet, the State
Theatre and the State Symphony Orchestra, as well as the Istanbul
Festivals.
The most dazzling venue in the city is the Byzantine
church of Haghia Eirene, in the grounds of the Topkapi
Palace complex – now a museum and used by the IKSV (see above)
during the Classical Music Festival in June. The most popular
summer venue is the Open Air Theatre,
Açik Hava Tiyatrosu (see above), which hosts Jazz
Festival events and other contemporary concerts.
The indoor Cemal
Resit Rey Concert Hall, Darülbedayi Caddesi, Conference
Valley, Harbiye (tel: (0212) 240 5012 or 231 5497/8 or 248 0863),
is one more popular venue for concerts and exhibitions. The International
Istanbul Music Festival, International Bosphorus Festival, International
Istanbul Jazz Festival and Rumeli Hisari Concerts are spread
out throughout the summer.
Theatre
Plays by international and Turkish playwrights are frequently staged
in Istanbul, several in smaller venues off Istiklal Caddesi, while
the more commercial extravaganzas (such as during the Istanbul International
Theatre Festival usually held in May) are at the Atatürk
Kültür Merkezi (see above), sometimes with digital
subtitling in English. |
