Istanbul has
been a shopper’s paradise for more than 1,500 years,
renowned as the trading point connecting the Silk Road from China
with Europe. Visitors tend to flock to the famous Grand
Bazaar in Beyazit (open 0700-1900, Monday to Saturday),
with its Ottoman atmosphere and cool covered streets (see Key Attractions).
This is a good place for an general idea of goods and prices,
however better bargains can often be found in the
smaller shopping areas of Sultanahmet
and Beyazit. Likewise, the famous Spice Bazaar
in Eminönü is a must see, if only for the mountains of
Turkish delight. Outside of the state-owned markets, most shops
stay open until late evening, although the official opening
hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1800.
Even at midnight, however, there are traders on the main pedestrian
thoroughfares selling toys, socks, black market CDs and even antiques
laid out on the ground.
As a designated tourist sector, the Sultanahmet area
is competitive in terms of price and a
selection of specialised goods, such as kilims, carpets,
silver jewellery and collector’s items. For a more bona
fide atmosphere, however, Istanbul’s street markets
are well worth a look, like the farmers’ market to
the right of the Spice Bazaar, and, on Tuesdays, near Fenerbahçe
Stadium, the huge Kadiköy market (plus a weekend flea
market too). On Sundays, the restored harbour area at Ortaköy
is taken over by a craft and antique market.
Çukurcuma
(along Turnacibasi Sokak, off Istiklal Caddesi) is the heart of
the antiques district. Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu
has a plethora of clothes, music, and book stores,
while the real fashionistas should head to the
area of Nisantasi, known as the Champs
Elysees of Istanbul, with Armani, Gucci, Hugo Boss
and the like, and the fancy department store Beymen.
Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side also has a good
range of fashion boutiques and department stores. Huge shopping
malls tend to be found in the suburbs, such as Galleria,
in Ataköy, and Akmerkez, in Etiler.
Typical Turkish gifts include delicate albeit cheap
tea sets, wooden boxes of Turkish delight, spice trays and boxes
of granulated apple tea. A blue ‘eye’ talisman is highly
popular in the city – almost every shop, home and room is
equipped with one.
Value-added tax (KDV
in Turkish) is at 18%, and it is usually
already included on most items, except hotels. Foreign
passport holders are exempt in the specially designated tourist
shops, which issue a specific invoice that can be presented at customs
for refunds. In most cases, however, tax is taken right off the
bill. Visitors should always make certain to get an invoice
for items that could be considered ‘antique’,
as the penalty for smuggling antiquities is very high and customs
officials are often poorly informed as to what constitutes an antique.
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