Sightseeing
Overview
It takes time to see Istanbul properly, since examples of its 2000-year-old
past can be difficult to find in the midst of the chaos
of the present. Most visitors go straight to the Sultanahmet
district, the oldest part of the city,
where there are at least some remnants of Byzantine Constantinople,
such as Haghia Sophia, among the splendours of
Imperial Ottoman architecture, such as Topkapi Palace
and the Blue Mosque. Sultanahmet
is, however, a ‘tourist quarter’ with
the usual annoyance of pestering touts and crowds of people and
it is not the only historic part of the city.
The city centre, including the areas referred to as ‘the
old city’ and ‘the new city’,
which is separated by the estuary of the
Golden Horn, is located on the European side of Istanbul,
on the western side of the Bosphorus Strait. Northwest of Sultanahmet
lies the area of Beyazit, focused around the famous
Kapali Çarsi (Covered or Grand Bazaar), while directly
north from Sultanahmet, following the tramway, visitors will quickly
hit the hurly-burly of the Eminönü
docks on the Golden Horn. From here, across the
Galata Bridge, the area beginning at Karaköy port,
running up to the landmark Galata Tower
and then up through Beyoglu and Taksim, was for
centuries the chosen residence of foreigners, including
Italian, Greek and Levantine traders. The Tünel climbs the
hill from Karaköy port to the start of Istiklal Caddesi,
a mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare leading up
to Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul and home to much
of its nightlife.
Mosques are more or less always
open to visitors, outside prayer times, although shorts
and sleeveless clothes should not be worn. Shoes are left outside
and women will be loaned a shawl to cover up arms and hair. Visitors
should not take photographs of women wearing the traditional black
‘çarsaf’, as this is outlawed.
Parents of little boys in their full circumcision regalia will usually
allow photos, although a small gift of money to the child is traditional.
Istanbul’s museum system is confusing,
as each is run by different ministries, municipal
authorities or private owners. Entrance
fees or opening hours can change suddenly. Check with tourist offices
for up-to-date opening times and prices.
Tourist
Information
Tourist Information (Turizm Danisma Burosu)
Sultanahmet Meydani
Telephone: (0212) 518
8754 or (0212) 518 1802.
Website: www.turizm.gov.tr
or www.istanbul.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300.
Good free city maps are available. Other
offices are located at Atatürk Airport (International arrivals),
Sirkeci Railway Station, Karaköy port and the Hilton Hotel
Arcade (Elmadag). Passes There are no tourist passes currently available.
Key Attractions
Haghia Sophia
Haghia Sophia, known as Aya Sofya and translated as ‘Church
of Divine Wisdom’, is considered the world’s finest
example of Byzantine architecture. Consecrated in 537AD, its huge
dome rises to 56m (183ft), designed to appear suspended in space
and thus representative of heaven. So impressed was Mehmet the Conqueror
that when he took the city in 1453, he dedicated it as a mosque,
and it remained so until declared a museum when the Turkish Republic
was founded. Highlights include Byzantine mosaics and huge Ottoman
circular shields containing calligraphy of Koranic verses. The museum
is now divided into two parts – the church and the mosaic
gallery – each requiring a different ticket and often a long
queue.
Sultanahmet, in front of Topkapi Palace
Telephone:(0212)
522 1750.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1630.
Admission charge.
Topkapi Palace
Originally built as a summer residence and the seat of government,
Topkapi Palace was home to harem, state administration and military
personnel in the 16th century, with around 3,000 residents. Sultans
abandoned it for Dolmabahçe Palace in 1855, but many of the
sumptuous jewels of the original treasury (including the Topkapi
Dagger, and gold-plated throne of Murat III), the armoury, silk
ceremonial robes, Chinese ceramics and the collection of manuscripts,
all convey the old Ottoman decadence. The prison-like harem, which
once housed up to 300 concubines, is only open to guided tours and
requires a separate ticket. The palace is always crowded and has
become expensive. To avoid lengthy queues, pre-booked tickets are
recommended.
Seraglio Point, Sultanahmet
Telephone: (0212)
512 0480.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0900-1730
(winter); Wed-Mon 0900-1900 (summer).
Admission charge.
Kapali Carsisi (Covered or Grand Bazaar)
The famous and vast bazaar is the best known of Istanbul’s
markets. It was instated shortly after the 1493 Conquest and contained
the slave market, as well as the hans, or caravanserais of old,
where Silk Road traders could rest themselves and their camels,
as well as sell their goods. While the ornate ceilings and labyrinth-like
layout still hark back to the past, these days the vast number of
stalls (around 4,000 of them, in 60 streets) sell mainly tourist-friendly
goods, including carpets, gold, leather and ceramics. The complex
also contains two mosques, money change offices, a police station,
cafes and an information point. Bargaining is essential at most
stalls.
Beyazit
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0700-1900.
Admission: Free.
Misir Carsisi
(Egyptian or Spice Market)
This L-shaped market, facing the Golden Horn, was built in the 17th
century as an extension to Yeni Camii (New Mosque), and financed
by the money paid as duty on Egyptian goods. Originally famed for
its exotic spices and oils from the Orient, these days it also sells
dried fruits, caviar and Turkish delight, as well a plethora of
souvenirs. Its surrounding streets are a hub of commercial activity,
with local craftspeople, traders and a great selection of cheeses
and olives.
Eminonu
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1900.
Admission: Free.
Sultanahmet
Camii (Blue Mosque)
The Blue Mosque was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmet (1603-1617),
as Islam’s answer to Haghia Sophia, and remains the symbol
and centre of religious demonstrations. Blue Iznik tiles dominate
the interior, and blue light shines through more than 250 windows.
The interior is stunning, from vast central dome designed to lift
all eyes heavenward, the latticework-covered Imperial Loge and the
mihrab (prayer niche) containing a piece of sacred black stone from
Mecca. At dusk during summer there is a Son et Lumière show.
The Imperial Pavilion also contains a state-run Carpet Museum with
Usak, Bergama and Konya samples, dating between the 16th and 19th
centuries.
Hippodrome, Sultanahmet
Telephone: (0212)
518 1330 (carpet museum).
Opening hours: Daily
24 hours, except during some prayer times; Carpet Museum:
Tues-Sat 0900-1600.
Admission: Free.
Yerebatan Sarayi (Basilica Cistern)
Sometimes referred to as the Sunken Palace, the Basilica Cistern
was the reservoir for water required for the Byzantine Great Palace,
and thought to date back to AD532. This huge atmospheric structure,
measuring 140m (460ft) by 70m (230ft), still contains a few feet
of water, over which wooden walkways have been constructed. Many
of the 336 columns supporting the cathedral-like ceiling have been
recycled from pre-Christian temples – such as the Medusa heads
that are used as column bases, pilfered from the Temple of Apollo
in Didyma (Didim). The cistern was used as a film set for the James
Bond film, From Russia With Love (1963).
Yerebatan Caddesi, Sultanahmet
Telephone:
(0212) 522 1259.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Suleymaniye Mosque
Even thoughfewer tourists make it here than to the Blue Mosque,
this is even grander and more peaceful, and one of the finest creations
by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The huge 53m-high dome and pencil-slim
minarets from each corner of the courtyard are an exquisite example
of symmetry and elegance. Built in the 1550s, the site also contains
the tombs of Sinan, Sultans Suleyman II and Ahmet II decorated with
intricate tiles, the original apartments of the mosque astronomer,
charitable foundations, caravanserai and fountain, all set around
a tranquil courtyard. There are several outdoor tea-houses in a
row behind the mosque.
Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, Suleymaniye
Telephone:
(0212) 513 3608.
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1630.
Closed to non-Muslims during prayer times.
Admission:
Free (Donation requested).
Galata Kulesi
(Galata Tower)
The balcony at the top of Galata Tower has an unforgettable view
of the city. Built in 1348 by the Genoese as part of their fortifications,
this distinctive 62m (205ft) tower with conical roof is visible
from most of the city. It was converted to cater for tourism, which
thankfully includes a lift, plus a nightclub and restaurant on the
top floors. On a clear day, it is possible to see the main monuments
of Istanbul and even Princes’ Islands. There is a charming
tea garden at the foot.
Buyuk Hendek Sokak, Tunel
Telephone: (0212)
245 3263.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900.
Admission charge.
Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi
The square is the nucleus of Istanbul’s modern European side,
which many tourists unfortunately miss. In the south-west corner
is the Monument of Independence, where the busy Istiklal Caddesi
starts and cuts through Beyoglu area. This 1.5km (1 mile) pedestrianised
boulevard is lined with shops, cinemas, markets and restaurants,
and crowded especially at night. Its 19th-century European consulates,
churches and ornate buildings are evidence that Beyoglu was once
the centrepiece for an Art Nouveau Belle Époque, and later
the hang-out for bohemian artists and intellectuals. Highlights
include the stained glass at the entrance to Cicek Pasaj (Flower
Passage), the imposing Galatasaray Lisesi (High School) and various
contemporary art galleries (free).
Beyoglu
Opening hours: Most shops open till
2100, later on Fri-Sat.
Admission: Free.
Great Palace Mosaic Museum
The small Mosaic Museum, tucked behind the Blue Mosque amid an alleyway
full of tourist shops, contains all that is left of the magnificent
flooring of Bucoleon Palace. This was the Great Palace of the Byzantine
emperors, which once covered the area from the Hippodrome to Haghia
Sophia and down to the harbour. Discovered in the 1950s, these mosaics
depict mythological and hunting scenes, including that of two men
subduing a tiger. They are thought to date from the reign of Justinian
(527-565AD) or even earlier and to have been part of the walkway
between the royal apartments and the imperial seats (kathisma) at
the Hippodrome.
Arasta Bazaar, Sultanahmet
Telephone:(0212)
518 1205.
Opening hours: Wed-Mon 0930-1630.
Admission charge.
Turk ve Esleri Müzesi (Turkish
and Islamic Art Museum)
Originally the 16th-century palace of Süleyman the Magnificent’s
most able Grand Vizier, Ibrahim Pasha, this museum contains more
than 40,000 items dating between the seventh to the 19th century.
Its famous carpet display contains Turkish carpets depicting Holbein
paintings and fragments of 13th-century Selçuk rugs. Further
highlights include Ottoman Koran cases and stands, illuminated manuscripts
and tiles, and the basement contains an exhibition of the evolution
of the Turkish house – from nomadic tents to 19th-century
palaces.
Hippodrome 46, Sultanahmet
Telephone: (0212)
518 1805.
Website: www.tiem.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0900-1700 (winter);
Tues-Sun 0900-1730 (summer).
Admission charge.
Archeoloji Müzeleri (Archaeological
Museums)
Istanbul’s Archeology Museums are located in three separate
buildings, once part of the Topkapi Palace complex. The main building
houses the famous fourth-century Alexander sarcophagus discovered
in Lebanon, as well as the facade of the Temple to Athena from Assos,
Byzantine mosaics and sarcophagi. The interior of the Çinili
Kösk (Tiled Pavilion), built in 1472, is covered in Iznik tiles
and contains the 14th-century royal blue Karaman Mihrab (prayer
niche). The Museum of the Ancient Orient includes the Treaty of
Kadesh, drawn up between the Egyptians and Hittites in 1269BC, plus
a magnificent frieze of a bull from Babylon.
Topkapi Palace, Seraglio Point, Sultanahmet
Telephone:
(0212) 520 7740.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 0930-1630;
subject to change, due to understaffing.
Admission charge.
Yildiz Park
Rising above the area of Besiktas, Yildiz is a welcome relief from
the noise of the city, with woodland and landscaped gardens. Sultan
Abdul Hamit built them for the Ciragan Palace (now a 5-star hotel
over the main road) where Sultans strolled and hunted since the
17th-century, now more popular with courting couples and picnicking
families, busiest at weekends. At the top are Malta Kosk and Cadir
Kosk, two outstanding 19th-century pavilions originally part of
the palace, whose guests included Winston Churchill and Charles
de Gaulle, and now operating as restaurants and cafés. The
park also houses Yildiz Palace Museum, Imperial Porcelain Factory
and City Museum.
Yildiz Park, Ciragan Caddesi, Besiktas.
Telephone:
(0212) 258 90 20.
Opening hours: Daily, dawn
till dusk.
Entry: Free for pedestrians; charge
for taxis.
Further Distractions
Eyüp
This religious district, about 8km (5 miles) from Sultanahmet, is
best known for its huge Ottoman cemetery with stunning views over
the Golden Horn. It is crowned with the famous Pierre Loti Café
(tel: (0212) 616 2344) – best enjoyed for alfresco tea. The
walk from the village is delightful, from the highly revered Eyup
Mosque, past market stalls selling religious books and headscarves,
and up the hill through the ancient tombstones.
Dolmabahçe
Palace
The Ottomans built Dolmabahçe Palace in the mid-19th with
kitsch extravagance. Although it is in poor condition, highlights
include the crystal staircase, royal bathroom and the alleged world’s
heaviest chandelier. Entrance (with high ticket price) is only by
guided tour, either through the ceremonial chambers (recommended)
or through the harem and concubine’s quarters.
Dolmabahçe Palace, Besiktas
Telephone:
(0212) 236 9000.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed
and Fri-Sun; 0900-1500 (winter), 0900-1800 (summer).
Admission charge.
Divan Edebiyati Müzesi
(Whirling Dervish Monastery)
The whirling dervishes, a mystic sect only nominally connected to
Islam were banned in the early days of the Republic, so this monastery
is officially the Museum of Classical Ottoman Poetry and Musical
Instruments. Dervishes still perform their ritual dance (sema) on
the last Sunday of each month and more often in summer, for a small
charge.
Galip Dede Sokak 15
Telephone: (0212) 243
5045 or 245 4141.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun
0930-1630.
Admission charge.
Kariye Muzesi (Kariye Museum)
Originally an 11th-century church, this contains Istanbul’s
finest Byzantine mosaics, as well as superb 14th-century religious
frescoes. Although converted to a mosque after the Conquest, the
mosaics were merely whitewashed over, and been preserved for display
in what is now a secular museum.
ariye Camii Sokak, Edirnekapi
Telephone: (0212)
631 9241.
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 0930-1630.
Admission charge. |
